Saturday, April 7

Adventure along the Loch Ness

How did the idea came about?
We were initially planning to head down (or west) to the Cairngorms National Park for a hike. Suddenly, Martin gave us a bunch of Sainsbury's discount coupon for ScotRail. With a return trip on the train just for £19, the Singaporean in me said, "Free discount, must use!" The thought of Gabriel's desire to visit Inverness (the city by Loch Ness, and also the capital of the Scottish Highlands) came to mind. So, one random day in the library, when i should have been studying, a number of googling and web-browsing was done, and the plan was conceived.

Hike the Great Glen Ways, a beginner's long distance route which spans alongside the Loch Ness for 117km, estimating a 5-7days hike. We decided to modify the trekking by starting halfway. Hiking and camping in the Spring, sounds great doesn't it? We were so wrong. We just threw ourselves into my greatest adventure thus far.

Day 1
We started off with our usual style. BEING LATE, to the extent that we had to call a taxi, and being fashionably on time for the departing train in the early 0715H morning.

Drumnadrochit view of the Loch Ness
A gorgeous bus ride down the Loch Ness. The funny thing was that we were gonna be going through the same route again, but instead on foot, and somewhere up in the hills. The view was pretty familiar, having travelled along the same road with my parents. As I reminisced about how 8months passed so quickly, Liz & Gab were busy struggling with car-sickness. They should try visiting China, the bus-drivers and terrainns are even more ruthless!

1st Stop - Fort Augustus!
Fish & Chips (Chippies) by the Loch
We decided to make camp in a designated campsite, just 5min of the town. They had a nice empty for both campers and caravans, equipped with shower facilities AND hot water. But for a whooping £8/pax?! That's a rip-off! Nonetheless, we wanted to be comfortable for the first night before we threw ourselves into the wild.


Typical attempts at Jump Shot
Our failed attempt to start a fire. Without any dry wood, we ended up soaking the cans in hot-water from the toilet

And the night wasn't comfortable, at least it wasn't for the rest. With a nice clear starry night sky, the heat waved goodbye along with the setting sun, leaving us freezing in our tents. In the middle of the night, the couple disappeared. And the apparent story was that they were in the toilet for 5hours, trying to thaw themselves. Rightttt...

Day 2
Everybody's motivation level dropped to as deep as the Loch Ness (at 260m, that's deeper than the North Sea in average!). I wasn't ready to give up, not right at the beginning! Maybel was really initially quite adament to the idea of going on, habouring on a non-existing Plan B (something that i never plan for). By now, the sky had become overcast, and the weather forecast was telling us snow was coming. Thankfully we went on, because the next ~15km was a treat.

After a continuous uphill, our first checkpoint!

Next checkpoint, luncheon meat for lunch (with bread & beans)
As we got closer to the next town, Invermoriston, we noticed a tree marked with an orange arrow, with a sign "Norwood Camp". We decided to check it out.
Orange arrows leading the way into the forest
We ended up at Norwood camp, a large plot of land in the middle of nowhere. We stood outside the gate, deciding on our next step. Suddenly, a scottish man (maybe a farmer?) and his can of Irn Bru (scot's soft drink) appeared from one of the buildings and began walking towards us. How did he know we were there?

"It's £4 per person for the night. You can use our toilets."
"Lovely! We will head down to the town first. And if we decide to come back, how can we find you?"

"Don't worry, I will find you."
*And the sound of chainsaws growled in the distance

No thank you! We are moving on!
Endless trekking...
Never too tired to set-up the tripod for a photo
After ~7hours, the river beside Invermoriston.
By the time we got to Invermoriston, it was apparent that we had missed the bus to the next town (the new Plan B that was devised while walking). Not a mistake on our side, but apparently the bus frequency on Sunday were much lesser. Damn the pamphlet for not mentioning that. The next bus was 2hours later...

We killed time in a restaurant, who were kind enough not to chase us out into the cold. Still, the bus was 20min. Next stop was Drumnadrochit!

The plan was camp at another designated campsite, Borlum's Farm. By the time we got there, night had fallen. No one answered the doorbell. So we decided to explore the farm a little, maybe we could find the owners... Instead, we found the toilet. And since it was apparent that no one was going to entertain us, we used their toilet and quickly scurried off to find a place to camp.

Our 'campsite' - At a road junction & beside the river

'Camp'-whoring! (The couple took the other tent)




Day 3
We had to conjure up a new plan for the day. Everything was not going according to plan. With the incoming weather forcing us out of the hiking plans, we were skipping to the major towns. We had a whole day to spend in Drumnadrochit. So we headed down to the Tourist Centre, picked up some brochures and was back to hiking up a random hill.

Taking the more difficult and steeper path

Sitting by the edge of the viewpoint, overlooking the town & Loch Ness

Using the dry branches that we collect along the way for a nice warm meal

Despite the fog and utter randomness of the hike, the climb was worth it


We walked along the main road towards the next checkpoint, which was the only area of interest that was planned for. Urquhaut Castle had the winning formula to make it a worthy visit. It had some history (though not epic), a magnificant view over a famous scenery, and most importantly - It was in ruins. I greatly dislike Castles which are refurbished and turned into a museum.

What makes a nice castle to visit - Destruction
We waited for the bus, which was yet again, was not arriving at the stipulated timing. It was a Weekday, so no excuses! Figured that the pamphlet timing was not updated. When we wanted to head back into the castle's reception to enquire, just 15min after its closure, the building was already pitch dark. Surely, they left very promptly. This time with no place warm to accommodate us, we battled with the constant drizzle as the temperature dipped to zero.

Jumping (or floating) to keep warm

Keeping warm with the exhaust of another bus
We did eventually get on the bus for Inverness, after more than an hour of waiting in the cold. It had began to snow. We headed for Travelodge (the hotel that i booked while at the viewpoint of the hill), and walking in the cold & snow without knowing the distance was exciting. I enjoyed the uncertainty.

Inverness - Snowing in Spring!
Day 4
We watched a good WWII movie till late. And finally had warm proper sleep. We could finally leave our backpacks behind and had a comfortable walk to Inverness town. There, we convinced ourselves that since we were on holiday, we shall be spendthrift and embark on a food rampage! We visited coffee shops, had ice cream, cakes, sandwich and soup. I also had my first 'atas' chocolates!


SG$1.25 each

Dessert frenzy


 With much time to kill, we visited the public library. Soon, we were tired of sitting around. Hence, we walked to and across the motorway, over to the Black Isle (Eastern Highlands). The highway spans across Moray Firth, the opening of the Loch Ness to the North Sea. I felt pretty stressed walking it, as the cars zoomed passed and the wind blew strongly in ever-changing direction.
Along the highway, with Beauly Firth & Inverness behind

In the distance, we saw a snow cloud approaching. We thought we could out-walk it, but halfway on the bridge, we were showered by heavy hail. So much snow/hail that I was collecting 'Ice Kachang' in my hoodie. Then the snow cloud passed us, and showered over Inverness. And it was sunny again...
Caught in the snow cloud

Dinner was in a nice pub called Hootananny's. Thai cruisine, drinks and live music.

Day 5
Ice cream in the cold. Brrr~
River Ness running through Inverness

Inverness Castle

Haggis, Neeps & Tatties - Sheep's inards, mash turnip & potato

Sticky Toffee Pudding w/ custard
As we sat in the train station, I felt that the ending of the trip was kinda anti-climatic. Said it too early.

A man came into the waiting room, and started chatting up Liz & I. It didn't take us long to realise that he was intoxicated / confused as he started repeating his questions. He lit his cigarette in the enclosed room, started singing aloud, and was receiving his audience of judgemental stares. Gab did come along at a later time, and the couple left at the sight of him, but i sat through all the way (with all the baggage). He was amusing. He reeked of alcohol, the smoke was unbearable, but i wanted to see the outcome.

I did finally manage to inform the train staff about him, who weren't very worried as they were familiar with such people. The trains had all arrived at the platform, and i was alone with this stranger. So i asked,

"Do you have somewhere to go tonight, like home?"

"I hate the British Government."

"But why so, sir?"

"They killed my family"

Taken aback by that statement, I sank into an awkward silence. Then he broke it,

"You are a very good man. Promise me something."

"Sure thing. What is it?"

"Promise me, that you would study hard. And when you finally get married, be good to your family. Be good to your wife and your children."

He handed me his phone, and requested for my number. I wondered whether should i simply fake a number. Or i could give him my actual number, not that he would remember anything. I checked, turns out he had no credits left. I left my real number under his recent call list.

We exchanged a hug. While he stumbled off, he suddenly burst into a momentary fit of rage and hollered at a passing train staff. Then he calmly walked into the distance.

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